June 14^th, 10:40pm

After breakfast this morning, we went to church with the Falalop community.  Their singing was absolutely beautiful.  The original church is gone, destroyed in the typhoon, so they are using the men’s house instead.  Men and women both inside, not the norm.  But as a church, it is a neutral space.  After the Catholic service (the dominant denomination here… since WWII?), a community meeting is held with the science team, Junior, us interns, the Falalop chief, and of course, the community.  We all did our introductions, and the chief sat and listened to Nicole and the other scientists discuss the sort of management questions they intend to answer here, and how it will benefit the reefs and the people.  Afterwards, Rick introduced the Explorers’ Club flag, and group photos featuring it front and center commenced.  Several with the flag upside-down… then later with the flag right-side up.  Honestly, I wouldn’t spot the difference.    

Later, we got in the boats (we have three small motor boats at our service), Ulithi kids included, and headed to the island Mas, stopping at Asor on the way to ask for permission, as is custom.  In the waters of Mas, we worked on coral morphologies with them, for stronger transecting skills.  Completed some full transect lines here.  On the other side of Mas, the oceanic side, the currents were much, much stronger, with a sudden (and awesome) deep dropoff looming close.  Whitetip sharks cruise the edge of the reef, before the dropoff.  Some transecting here, some snorkeling for fun.
 

Then back in the boats to Asor, where we were welcomed by the small (<80) but very warm Asor community.  A woman named Laurie showed us her vast and dense garden, still recovering from the typhoon but impressive nonetheless.  Taro, bananas, corn, squash, and big giant green pumpkins.  She gifted us each a pumpkin to take back to Falalop, and we carried them close to our chests like treasures.  We emerged from the jungle garden just in time for the most amazing meal of my life, to date.  It was a farewell dinner for an American man named Matt, who was there doing scholarship aide.  Hand-woven coconut frond plates and roasted and fried fish, all the tropical fish we were just familiarizing ourselves with in the water – parrot, emperor, unicorn.  Stewed octopus with white, hot pink, and golden-orange rice, sweet potatoes in coconut milk. Put it on your woven plate, eat it with your hands.  And sea turtle eggs!  Very briefly cooked, one per person.  Don’t freak out!  This is sustainable here, and normal.  I felt honored to receive this, but still with my American confliction lingering.  Very tasty, though.  We washed our hands in the ocean and bid farewell to all the little kids we played with before dinner, and to Laurie.  Had fun with the GoPro on the boat ride back – these rides are fast and thumping and fun as hell. 

We returned to the lodge – sunset, a far-off storm, drizzle.  And data logging.  Data logging forever!  It must be done.  A nightly briefing (FEMA people coming tomorrow, maybe?), then I take a bucket shower.  Now sleep.