June 16^th, 10:25pm

Just now settling into bed, first time I am here before Shanthi is asleep.  First thing this morning, Doctor Nicole patched up my angry, purple-red knee with iodine and triple antibiotic, feeling better even after snorkeling today.  We sampled a ton at Mogmog landing today, reefs are in pretty bad shape there.  Lots of invasive Montipera (cabbage coral) and low rigosity otherwise, thus poor fish habitat.  Then to Mogmog Island, the spiritual center of Ulithi Atoll.  Very traditional here, even compared to the other islands.  No board shorts on girls (this is accepted on us elsewhere), no hats on the boat or standing up a we approach.  No shirts on the Ulithi girls, which they have very mixed feelings about.  There was a meeting going on with the Mogmog chief/community and Mark from FEMA (or was he US Aid?).  He was talking about cash to families, “transportation” support money, etc.  Was strange and kind of uncomfortable .  Their community just doesn’t work that way – it is very nuanced and socially communal, and the western template just doesn’t quite fit.  But Mark is a nice guy and means very well.  He has a laugh like a dolphin!  Kelsey left to interview him for her documentary and Nicole, Junior, and the science team took over.  They spoke about the Mogmog reef, the worst hit by Super Typhoon Maysak, sadly in the worst condition of the atoll.  There was discussion of management importance, using the aid money for boat fuel to fish further out in order to relieve pressure from the immediate reefs.  One man was four when Typhoon Ophelia hit 60 years ago, too young to vividly recall the reef as it was, but knows it used to be much healthier when he was young.  We ate lunch on Mogmog, PB&J, and biologists Avigdor and Giacomo (from Israel and France, respectively) told us stories of their first encounters ever with the thing called peanut butter.

The science team went to sample at Songetigech Island (I think), and we boated back to Falalop.  Big waves!  Flying fish!!  Too cool.  When the science team returns we get our data logging on, and later that night, the Ulithi kids return and Nicole gives a presentation on corals, their life cycles, and their importance to fish and the creation of islands.  Then we watch National Treasure on the projector, of course. 

We’ve taken to whistling the Jurassic Park theme song on the approach to each island.  It's very fitting.